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Using Nothing In Life Is Free To Become The Alpha Dog

December 20th, 2006 · 11 Comments

The Nothing In Life Is Free (NILIF) regimen is well suited for most dogs because it’s effective for such a wide variety of behavior issues. A shy, withdrawn or timid dog becomes more self assured by knowing that they no longer have anything to worry about, you’re in charge of everything. A dominant, aggressive or anxious dog that may be pushing too hard to become the pack leader will learn that the position is simply not available and life will be so much more enjoyable without the title. Nothing In Life Is Free is also successful with dogs that fall anywhere between those two extremes. The regimen is not hard to implement and not very time consuming for you (especially if your dog already knows a few basic obedience commands). While the changes in behavior can be more profound in some dogs than others Nothing In Life Is Free rarely fails to bring about a positive change in k9 behavior. While most people start the regimen for it’s behavior modification benefits, it is also suitable for a dog that has no major behavior problems and simply needs some fine tuning and balance.

Reversing Attention On Demand

The program begins by eliminating your dog’s control over you. When your dog comes to you and nudges your hand, She is saying “pet me! pet me! NOW!” You must resist the urge to succumb to her demand. Don’t tell her “no”, don’t push her away. Seuss holds the attention of 3 dogsSimply pretend you don’t notice her at all. This has worked for her before, so don’t be surprised if she tries even harder to get your attention. When she figures out that this is no longer working, she’ll stop. In a natural dog pack situation, the top ranking dogs demand attention from the lower ranking ones, not the other way around. When you give your dog attention on demand you’re telling her that she has more status in the pack than you do. A shy or timid dog can easily become stressed by having this power and may become clingy. This creates a vicious cycle. They’re now never sure when you’ll be in charge so they can’t relax. What if something unexpected happens, like a stranger coming to the house? Who should handle that? The timid dog ends up on edge a lot of the time because she ends up with more responsibility than she can handle.

Dogs see receiving attention whenever they demand it as confirmation that they are the alpha dog, then they become difficult to handle when told to “sit” or “down” or some other demand is placed on them. It is not their pack status that stresses them out, it’s the lack of consistency. Dogs are happiest when the pack order is stable. Tension for them is brought about by a perceived fluctuation of pack leadership roles.

The Last Hurrah

The way it stands your dog already knows that your attention is available at her whim. As of today, it no longer works, but she isn’t aware of that yet. We all try harder at something we know works when it suddenly stops working. In this case you can expect much more insistence from your dog demanding that attention. If during those peak times of increased demands you cave and give him attention you will have to work that much harder to get her turned around again. Telling her “no” or pushing her away may not be the kind of attention she’s after, but it’s still attention. Completely ignoring her will work far better.

The Power Is Yours

To make the regimen really work you must control all of the resources in your dogs life. Playing, attention, food, walks, going in and out of the door, going for a ride in the car, going to the dog park must all be under your control. Anything and everything that your dog wants must come from you. If she’s been getting everything for free there is no real reason for her to acknowledge your leadership or your control of these things.

To implement the NILIF system of dog training you simply have to make your dog earn her use of your time & resources. She’s hungry? Not a problem, she simply has to sit before her bowl is put down & wait until released with an “OK” before eating. She wants to play fetch? Great! She has to perform a good “sit” or “down” before you’ll throw the ball. Want to go for a walk? She has to sit to get her lead snapped on and has to sit while the front door is opened. Going for a ride in the car? She has to sit and wait while the door is opened and listen for “OK” to get in the car. When you return she has to wait for the “OK” even if the door is wide open. Don’t be too hard on her right from the start. She’s already learned that she gets to make all of these decisions on her own. She has a long history of being able to get what she wants when she wants it. Enforce the new rules consistently, but keep in mind that she’s only doing what she’s been conditioned by you to do and she’s probably going to need some time to adjust to it all.

Your Job Won’t Be Easy

You’re going to have to pay attention to little nuances that you probably haven’t even realized happened before. If you feed your dog off your plate at dinnertime, do you just toss her a green bean? Not anymore. She has to earn it. You don’t necessarily have to use standard obedience commands, any kind of action will do. If your dog knows “high five”, “rollover” or “speak” use those commands. Does your dog prefer to sleep on your bed? Supply her own bed for your bedside or consider using a crate. At the minimum you must teach her that she has to wait for you to say “OK” to get on your bed and she has to get down the moment you say “off”. Teach her to “down” in a designated spot. When she goes to her spot and lays down tell her “stay” and then release her after a short pause and follow with praise. Having a particular spot where she stays is very helpful for when you have guests or otherwise need her out of the way for a while. It also teaches her that free run of the house is a resource that is always under your control. There are many other things that your dog values as a resource that I haven’t mentioned here. Be creative.

The interaction should not be long or drawn out. All you need to do is administer a simple command before allowing her access to the thing she wants. Dinnertime, for example, can be a short interaction that consists of nothing more than a “sit”, then “good girl!”, putting down the bowl and simply walking away. If she follows you return her to the eating area and point out the food and let her know it’s time to “eat”.

Playtime & Activities

Now that your dog is no longer in control & calling all the shots you need to make an extra effort to provide her with playtime & activities. The difference now is that you are the one who initiates the activities and begins the playtime. She will depend on you now more than ever to see that she gets what she needs. What she will need most is active quality time with you. This would be a good time to enroll her in group obedience class or seek one on one consultation. If her basic obedience is already nearly top notch, see about joining an agility class, fly ball team or simply go for some hikes on a local wooded trail. Remember that Nothing In Life Is Free doesn’t mean you have to limit the amount of attention you give your dog. You simply cannot allow her to be in control of the interactions. Go ahead and call her to your side 1000 times a day if you really want to. Just be sure to get the fee.

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Tags: Behavior Modification · Dog Training · Living With Dogs · Nothing In Life Is Free (NILIF)

11 responses so far ↓

  • 1 Barbara // Apr 24, 2007 at 2:33 pm

    I think this program is wonderful. I have a 16 month old male boxer (neutered) whom I received from a rescue. Initially he was incorrigible. I wondered what I had done, as I have an 8 year old femail boxer whod is near perfect.
    Anyway the NILIF works wonders and he as improved immensely. Sometimes he still tries his tricks on strangers or people who come to the house infrequently.

  • 2 Seuss // May 5, 2007 at 7:29 pm

    Thanks for your feedback Barbara. (I’m curious how you found my site)

    NILIF is one of those things that has a HUGE “getting it” curve in that there is a lot of change of behavior for most humans in order to enact the change wanted in the dog. The beauty of it though is in the simplicity… once you make it a habit you find the results coming much easier for you.

    Don’t forget to take full control if need be to finish “de-tricking” your boxer. I’d try leashing him when one of these infrequent visitors is due to arrive. This way you can put him in a sit (vocally) before opening the door but have the leash there enabling a true correction should he try those tricks of his.

    thanks again for visiting and feel free to get in touch if I can advise on anything.

  • 3 Kelly // Sep 5, 2007 at 2:09 pm

    I just rescued a 4 year boxer 4 days ago) that has had a few aggression issues, but we are beginning training soon. He was picked up with an injured front leg that his previous owners never fixed. He’s a beautiful dog and has basic manners and training. My current problem is that he is favoring my boyfriend over me. When we are together and I give him a command he immediatley looks at my boyfriend first. He completley ignores me when we get home and I let him out of crate. Goes straight for my boyfriend. I am currently the only one feeding him and walking him right now. Do you have any other suggestions? He seems to be veiwing my boyfriend as Alpha. He needs to veiw both of us as equal…..advice is appreciated.

  • 4 Phil // Sep 11, 2007 at 3:54 pm

    I have a 9 week old female Boston Terrier - when does this mode of training really become effective? At her current age, she can’t control a lot of her functions, let alone me giving her permission.

  • 5 Seuss // Sep 11, 2007 at 9:35 pm

    Kelly,

    I’d suggest having your boyfriend give him a good old fashioned Amish shunning. Best time for this exercise is when you both will be around the dog steady for a couple days (weekend etc.). You should do everything and he should do nothing as far as interactions with the dog (this will be hardest for the boyfriend… no head pats!). Do as many activities as possible (especially long walks) with both you and your boyfriend present but again with no interactions from him to the dog. After those 2 days slowly reintroduce your boyfriend as a fellow command giver etc. until they have resumed normal interactions, but you should remain the main walker (daily!) for the near future.

    Thanks for your question & let me know how things progress.

  • 6 Seuss // Sep 11, 2007 at 10:02 pm

    Phil,

    Like you said she won’t be responding to direct requests just yet. Throughout the coming weeks you can insert commands into your use of NILIF & in the meantime you can build off of her instinctual desires. If you haven’t already done so, set up feeding times for her. When it’s time to eat get her attention on you and the bowl of treasure. If you hold it close enough for her to inspect it then you’ll likely be able to get her to sniff her way into a “sit”. Once her butt hits the floor say “sit” and pause a beat before setting down the bowl. With repetition of this process she’ll begin to connect her sit with the food. You should see her start to sit once she sees the bowl or hears her food being poured.

    Once she starts plopping down for food you can use a soft treat to get a sit at the door before a walk etc. Keep adding tasks as she learns them and go slow so she keeps up with you. The real challenge is remembering the big dog brain that lurks in her wee body… don’t let her think she’s in charge.

    Good luck with her & keep in touch!

  • 7 april // Dec 18, 2007 at 4:31 pm

    My dog goes bannanas when people come to my house no matter if he has met them before and If I tell him to sit he doesnt he just barks like someone is killing him. In fact he stayed at my neighbors house for a week while I was out of town and still barks at him when he comes over. You should know I bought my dog from a pet store he was 6 months old.

  • 8 Devi // Feb 2, 2008 at 6:37 pm

    Great article! I’m a big supporter of NILIF training. My dog has to do something for me for EVERYTHING he gets, whether it be asking him to sit, wait or down. He doesn’t get a thing until he is calm either, so he doesn’t associate excitement with getting him what he wants. It’s paying attention to the little details most owners overlook that can really make a huge difference.

  • 9 Shane // Mar 9, 2008 at 8:08 pm

    I have an 8 month old non-nuetered male bernese mnt dog that thinks he owns me. We are a family of three and my wife and son seem to have the easier time with him. He has basic commands under his collar and is mostly a love. However, when he doesn’t get what he wants he goes nuts…biting me, jumping, humping, and the oh so loud barking. One minute he’s the best thing ever and the next I want to kill him as I have to fight him off. He is going to be nuetered in just a couple of days. A response would be great…he’s breaking my heart. I’m a long time dog owner and he’s my toughest challenge yet.

  • 10 chunnk // Jun 15, 2008 at 9:01 pm

    hi have a 3 month old pug, I got him when he was tens weeks, he is mostly house trained, but has marked the bed twice….surely he has pee-ed and then dribbles alittle on the bed, the same spot two times in three days, how can i use nilif to fix this behavior?

  • 11 Sara // Jun 26, 2008 at 8:19 pm

    I have a six month old American Bulldog who came to me as a rescue in horrible physical condition, and he acted so thankful and appreciative of our initial care that we thought we hit the jackpot with the perfect animal…. until he became comfortable in his new life and started getting bolder by the day.

    My only real issue right now is his complete lack of ‘dog socialization’ skills… no manners around other dogs, wants to jump on them, hump them (just neutered too) and basically dominate all the other dogs… I want him to have doggie friends on an equal playing field rather than terrorizing everyone else… mind you, he’s NOT aggressive at all, just TOO playful and doesn’t know when to ‘take the hint’ if someone nips him… he keeps at it and keeps at it until they’re all running and hiding.

    Any advice on how NILIF can help with this?

    Thank you!

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